Global Consciousness-Raising

February 22nd, 2010

No theater in the US has had a longer commitment to presenting Shakespeare than San Diego’s Old Globe.  That’s one of the factoids I learned on a recent behind-the-scenes tour of the landmark theatrical complex.IMGP3942

I had wanted to see the results of the recently completed $22 million renovations. For anyone accustomed to associating just one name with this place – Cassius Carter, a Shakespeare lover and district attorney active in San Diego in the early 1900s whose name was given to the theater-in-the-round that opened in 1969 — the new appellations are a little head-spinning. The whole complex has now been named after local philanthropist Conrad Prebys, who kicked in $10.4 million of the construction funds. The Globe’s directors used that money to demolish the Carter and replace it with a new theater that’s been named for $6 million donors Sheryl and Harvey White.  Also new is an education center named after Karen and Donald Cohn ($5.35 mil) and a events room named after Kathryn Hattox ($5 mil). Even the lobby has been christened after Erna and Andrew Viterbi ($2 mil). It seems almost miraculous that the new bathrooms incorporated into the White Theater don’t have namesakes too.

Although the new theater at first glance resembles the Carter (it’s still a theater-in-the-round), it now boasts more than just those bathrooms (which the old facility lacked). Entrances and exits have been greatly improved and 30 seats added, including some thIMGP3934at are wider.  (There’s even a loveseat to accommodate jumbo-sized theatrical patrons.)

The tour took in more than just the new stuff, including lots of  inside touches. We were led into the actors’ green room, dressing rooms, and the costuming department, which has a year-round staff of 16 and can balloon up to more than 60 people during the busiest times of the year. The latter yielded a particularly fascinating factoid, namely that misting vodka on smelly clothes removes the body odor without leaving any stain. I also learned that the Globe never uses as an on-stage prop any book published after the date of the time portrayed in the play. Our guide mentioned that the first incarnation of San Diego’s Old Globe was designed for the 1935 Exposition by Thomas Wood Stevens as a copy of one built for the Chicago world’s fair, which in turn was a copy of the Globe in London. Quite the huckster, Stevens presented up to 6 severely abridged (50-minute-long) Shakespearean plays a day.

Although I took the tour with a group from the San Diego Professional Tour Guide Association, the Globe offers the backstage tours at 10:30 a.m. many Saturdays and Sundays year-round. The charge is $5 per person; $3 for students and folks aged 60 and older. No reservation is necessary, but call (619) 231-1941 to make sure tours are planned for any given weekend.

4 Tons of Magic

February 14th, 2010

The Jade Buddha for Universal PeaceSadly, the Jade Buddha for Universal Peace will only be with us for 2 more days.  But it’s pretty amazing he made it here as fast as he did.

The 18-ton gem-quality boulder from which he sprang was only discovered (in Northern Canada) 10 years ago, and it wasn’t until 2003 that a Buddhist lama, Zopa Rinpoche, divined that the boulder had to be made into a holy object and offered to the world. By giant Buddha-carving standards, the next 5 years saw a frenzy of activity: raising money to buy the jade; making multiple prototypes (modeled after the most famous Buddha in the world, which resides inside the Mahabodhi Stupa in Bodh Gaya, India),  and assembling a team of jade-carving masters in Thailand. The carving and polishing were completed in December of 2008. Named (by Zopa Rinpoche) the Jade Buddha for Universal Peace, the massive object began a world tour that took it first to Vietnam. There an estimated 3.5 million people paid their respects to it. It went on to spend 6 months in Australia and then arrived at the Phap Vuong Monastery in Escondido on Superbowl Sunday.

Monastery officials later estimated that more than 10,000 people turned out well before the big game began, and the monastery has been abuzz with round-the-clock activity ever since. When I arrived around noon yesterday, more than 100 cars filled the parking lot, and the flags lining the central pathway fluttered against a cobalt sky. A festive crowd moved throughout the grounds, milling around tables bearing jade chips for sale, and eating rice and stir-fried vegetables at long communal tables. The nexus of excitement, though, was the tent sheltering the statue, a riot of colorful fruit and flowers and fabrics.  Some of those who stood, barefoot, on the bamboo mats surrounding the pavilion snapped photos, while others prostrated themselves, reverent.  The Buddha’s face is painted with non-reflecting gold, a Tibetan and Nepalese tradition.  He looked happy.

He’ll move on to Florida next, followed by a dozen and a half more stops in the US and Canada. Then he’ll make his way through Europe, finally settling down to a permanent home in Australia.  If he works his magic the way Zopa Rinpoche predicted, he’ll bring inconceivable peace and happiness to the world. That can’t come a moment too soon.  

Soaring Spot

February 10th, 2010

glidersNice to see the good news in yesterday’s Union-Tribune: that some attention is finally being paid to sprucing up the Torrey Pines Gliderport. I think the site should rank among our more interesting tourist attractions, but the existing facilities are pretty scruffy. Who knows if the city will really be able to scrounge up any money for this?  But it’s good to know it’s a possibility.

I hadn’t realized that the gliderport was listed in the National Registry of Historic Places. Less surprising was the news that it played an important role in the development of hang gliding and paragliding.  According to the Union’s story, one of the players in that history was Charles Lindbergh, who was the first person to fly above the bluffs (in a sailplane that took him from Mount Soledad to Del Mar on February 24, 1930). The gliderport’s website says it was “first established as a soaring site in 1928 and has defined the history of motor less flight.”

Asian San Diego

February 9th, 2010

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Among San Diego’s many museums, the one devoted to San Diego Chinese history is easy to overlook. That’s a shame, I discovered, when I finally got around to a visit there. Opened in 1996, the museum sits at the heart of the city’s Asian Pacific Historic District (so designated in 1987). By San Francisco or even LA standards, this is not much of a Chinatown. But there’s a reason why. Although the Chinese who immigrated to San Diego in the second half of the 1800s were forced to live on and around lower Third Street downtown, their numbers never exceeded 1000 or so.  When the laws and prejudices that had prevented them from living outside the Gaslamp Area were dismantled after World War II, they assimilated into neighborhoods throughout the city. Kearny Mesa in particular has become a stronghold for Asian restaurants and other commercial enterprises in recent decades. But while that has taken place,  the old downtown quarters have slowly gained recognition for their historic roots. There’s more to come, according to the guide who led the Saturday morning walking tour that I joined.  According to him, the City of San Diego has already committed to adding more Asian street lamps on Third Street, as well as 8-foot-tall stone lions and a gate, to be installed at Third and Market.

On the tour, some of the information sounded suspiciously inaccurate to me. But I enjoyed the museum. In the Chinese Mission Building on the southeast corner of Third and J, beautifully constructed diaramas of the old historical fishing village and the Wild Western Chinatown charmed me, as did the detailed display about the Chinese laundries that once proliferated here. There’s also a sweet little garden out in back, complete with a limestone Buddha head IMGP3900which a plaque proclaims to have been carved in a cave in the Shanxi Province some 1500 years ago. It was a little weird to hear the Mexican radio station playing in the kitchen of Candelas, the excellent Mexican restaurant that adjoins the Chinese Museum.  In fact, it’s a little weird (or sad) that the Asian District includes not a single Chinese restaurant. It does have a museum annex (across from the Mission Building) that houses rotating exhibitions.

The museum is open from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and noon to 4 on Sundays.  Admission is just $2. This weekend promises to offer even more diversions.  It’s the 28th annual San Diego Chinese New Year fair (this year celebrating the Year of the Tiger). For details on the two days of Chinese acrobats, lion and dragon dancers, Chinese folk dance and music, and more, see http://2010.sdcny.org.

 

Beach boy

February 5th, 2010

I never intended for Travels in San Diego to be a forum for San Diego dog news, let along bulldog news, but I can’t resist saluting the Beach & Bay Press’s article today about Floyd the skateboarding bulldog.  Is this a trend?  I’ve seen at least one other skateboarding bulldog (see photo). Beach bulldog

Floyd’s Youtube video is awesome too.  Check out the way he steers!

Giddyap

February 3rd, 2010

SDPD horses edited

Looks like the city’s horses are going to fetch much higher prices than expected. More than a month after word leaked out that the longstanding equestrian unit was being axed to save money, the horses finally have been put up for auction on the Public Surplus website . Although similar animals have previously sold in the $2,000 to $2,500 range, the seven geldings already were commanding bids ranging from $3,000 to $4,500 when I just checked a few minutes ago.

That makes me feel slightly better.  It seems like recognition – if a pallid sort – of how valuable the horses were.

I was reminded of that at the end of December, when I talked to Sgt. Bret Righthouse about the bad old days before a cadre of mounted San Diego police department officers began routinely patrolling Balboa Park. That was back in 1994. Transients and illegal aliens had set up permanent encampments; some even built huts on the rooftops of buildings in the park’s central mesa. Illicit sexual activity was rampant, along with drug sales, in the brushy hillsides of the west mesa. Discarded syringes littered the playgrounds, and car theft rings abounded. “It was honestly to the point where I wouldn’t bring my family here,” Righthouse recalled. “Maybe you’d go to a museum for an hour or two, but it wasn’t a park you could just walk in and enjoy.”

When a 24-year-old actor was killed in a drive-by shooting one night as he strolled across the Laurel Street Bridge with his girlfriend, public anxiety skyrocketed. So the police department decided to beef up the horse-patrol unit that had been established in 1983 but which had shrunk to almost nothing by the beginning of the ‘90s. Righthouse joined the squad then; in its expanded form, it included two sergeants and a dozen officers. Working two shifts a day, seven days a week, the equestrian teams roamed the park’s roads and pathways from seven in the morning until 1:00 a.m., confronting criminals, arresting and later re-arresting the same offenders. Soon the park’s resident scofflaws tired of the routine and moved out. “Basically we decimated the crime,” Righthouse said.

He recalled how the early dramatic results in Balboa Park soon caught the attention of police in other parts of the city, and the equestrian unit began making sorties into other troubled areas. The unit streamlined the steps it took to enlist its aid. “All you had to do was make a phone call,” Righthouse said. Little by little, police supervisors throughout the city began to recognize that the cops on horseback could be used “like a city-wide strike force.” In summers the teams patrolled both Mission Beach and Pacific Beach, intervening in one rowdy scuffle after another.  Righthouse says during one long Fourth of July at Mission Beach, the officers stopped counting how many fights they had broken up when the number reached about 100. “The horses would literally run from one problem group to another.” Officers were adept at hand-cuffing suspects from the saddle; they carried the same weapons as any regular patrol officer. One time the troublemakers consisted of a drunken beach crowd intent upon overturning a lifeguard vehicle. The horseback officers dispersed the mob with ease.

Using the horses for such tasks required that the animals be desensitized to sights and noises that would make most horses rear up or stampede: traffic, trolleys, crowds, waving flags, flashing lights, flares, blaring horns, and so much more. “A horse is a flight animal,” Righthouse pointed out. For the police work, that most basic instinct had to be overridden. The animals had to learn to walk up and down curbs painted a variety of colors, all of which might pose a different kind of danger — from the horse’s naïve perspective. They had to ignore manhole covers, climb flights of stairs, negotiate narrow passageways – without balking or panicking. Crowd control long ago was added to the unit’s routine duties, and to handle that, the horses had to learn how to synchronize their movements with other horse teams, as well as officers on foot, who might be aiming — and using – riot guns. “People think there aren’t a lot of political demonstrations in San Diego, but we’ve worked hundreds of protests. We’ve literally lined up and pushed crowds out of the way while people threw rocks and bottles at us.”

Righthouse said his experiences had showed him that “ten horses could move a crowd that it would take 100 foot cops to do….  And the amount of force necessary to move a crowd with a horse is far less than that required by foot officers. We move very slowly; we don’t even touch people.” A horse and rider decked out in riot gear evokes primordial fears of being trampled.  Even agitated, aggressive humans edge away.

Now that the horses are going, all that capacity will be gone (in 8 more days, when the auction closes).  But there’s one more opportunity to view the animals. Their long-time home in the park will be open from 9 to noon tomorrow (Thursday) for inspeSDPD horse sign.jpgction by potential buyers (or anyone who pretends to be one, I imagine.) To reach the stables, take Park Boulevard to President’s Way, and turn right at the first unmarked street. The road leads down to the stables area. Bring a carrot.

Topless

February 2nd, 2010

IMGP3944I was startled the other day by the new look at the Sculpture Court Cafe adjoining the San Diego Museum of Art and its sculpture garden. It’s been my favorite place to eat in Balboa Park since it was the Waters Cafe, and when Guiseppe Ciuffa took over the operation last summer, that only made me like it more.  Ciuffa, who was born outside of Rome, also is the chef at the Museum Cafe at the Museum of Contemporary Art in La Jolla, and he owns a catering company than I’ve used for San Diego Insider Tours.  The fare at the cafe in the park is fresh and beautifully delivered. (Among some of the more interesting items on the menu: a yummy Tuscan cannellini bean and black cabbage soup, a cured salumi board, roasted portobello pizza, and an “ultimate” grilled cheese sandwich made from San Daniele prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil pesto on sourdough bread.) Prices are reasonable, you can always get in, and it’s usually pleasant to gaze out  the sculpture collection from the protected space of the covered courtyard.

Except… the cloth roof is missing at the moment.  That gives the courtyard a whole different (sunnier and more open) look. The change was unintentional, I learned when I asked the fellow manning the front desk at the entrance. Apparently those savage rainstorms the week before last dealt a fatal blow to the fabric and it had to be taken down. But the roofless state created insurance problems of some sort, I was told, so for the moment, the cafe is serving only food prepared offsite.

Happily, the attendant assured me the new material should be installed within the next two to three weeks — at which point the kitchen will return to normal operations.  That’s a relief to anyone looking for an idyllic spot to rest and refuel in the park.

 
street shot edited

The courtyard, pre-tempest

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The current topless state

 

 

Top Dog — Almost

January 28th, 2010

Thanks to the Voice of San Diego for alerting me to the American Kennel Club’s latest report on San Diego dog breed rankings. I was shocked to learn the once-lowly bulldog has crept up to the #2 position, behind only the longtime favorite labrador retriever.  Third most popular dog in San Diego, as attested to by AKC registrations, is the golden retriever, followed by the Yorkshire terrier (#4) and German shepherd.

The AKC figures reveal that San Diego is hardly the only place that’s been discovering the bulldog’s charms. In 2009 the breed ranked within the top 5 most popular in fully half of the 54 cities for which the AKC reports rankings. I tried to spot some pattern within those breakdowns, but the only thing I could see was that bulldogs may be somewhat more appealing to Westerners — the most popular dog in LA (!) and second most in Vegas.  Bulldogs occupy both the #2 and #4 spots in San Francisco (the #2 spot going to the French variety).  They’re not on New Yorkers’ Top Five list at all — but they’re #3 in Boston.

Yuli mug 250 wide

Still #1 -- but for how long?

According to the AKC figures, the bulldog’s current popularity has been building in recent years. In 1997, they only ranked 26th nationwide (versus 7th nationwide last year). The AKC suggests maybe that’s due to celebrity influences. Adam Sandler, Kelly Osborne, and John Legend are among the better-known bulldog owners.  

Eurofind

January 27th, 2010

P1010040Last Friday I had a chance to visit the Eurofood Depot, which I learned about a few weeks ago from Caron Golden’s blog. I’m a sucker for this sort of find: the gem tucked away in a most unlikely location, in this case a sterile stretch of Lusk Boulevard (a few blocks north of Mira Mesa Boulevard) that you’d expect to be inhabited only by geekish gnomes surviving on Diet Coke and junk food.  You have to call or get on an e-mail list to find out when the Depot’s “showroom” will be open to the public.

The showroom is located in the back of the building, where giant metal garage doors were opened to admit the air and light on the morning of my visit . That felt like a San Diego touch. But the rest of the place transported me to France. A long glass display case P1010035was crammed with tempting cheeses, sausages, mousses, smoked meats, and pates. Pretty free-standing shelves, some topped with bright Provencal table linens, showed off more of the bounty: hazelnut, walnut,and grapeseed oils; dried mushrooms; exotic mustards (blackcurrant Dijon!); duckfat; Costco-sized jars of cornichons; flageolets; couscous; Swiss and Belgian chocolate, and more. Both the owners, Fabien Faucheux and Franck Danglard, were on-hand, welcoming and energetic. Fabien, a food-industry veteran, seemed proud of the fact that all his offerings were priced well below what they cost at Whole Foods (if Whole Foods even carries them).  I had the sense that offering the retail hours (if limited ones) was something of a gift to the local foodie community, as the plan is for the main thrust of the business to develop online.

The Eurofood Depot website, though still under construction, already lists close to 300 products. It’s also a good place to sign up for the e-mail notices of when the showroom will be open. For this week, at least, those hours will be Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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Bye-bye B.

January 19th, 2010

A sad note: Saturday was the last day of operation for the last B. Dalton’s in San Diego, the Westfield Horton Plaza branch. Yeah, yeah, I know it’s part of the Great Debookification of America, or at least the Great Debookstorifcation, as book sales continue to move online. Still there’s a part of me that wonders what the world is coming to, if even the big chain bookstores are disappearing from the malls. This closure (the final chapter in a decision made years ago by parent company Barnes & Noble to shutter all the outlets of the chain it acquired in 1986) means there are no bookstores in Horton Plaza or Fashion Valley (which lost its Waldenbooks about a year and a half ago).

Of course other malls continue to have at least one, including Mission Valley ( Borders in the malls west annex), Plaza Bonita (Borders), Westfield UTC (Crown Books in the former Robinson-May building), Hazard Center (Barnes & Noble). Moreover, the chains (including Bookstar, Borders, and Barnes & Noble) can be found in at least a dozen locations throughout the country.

But it wasn’t a good year for San Diego independent booksellers either, what with the closure of the fabulous Wahrenbrock’s downtown and Bill Burgett’s store in Normal Heights. Rumors have floated that Adams Avenue Book would also be a casualty.  But that, happily, isn’t true (though the store will be closed for renovations, probably in February and March, it will be re-opening.) And San Diego still has a handful of other wonderful independents, with my favorites among them including Warwick’s and D.G. Wills in La Jolla, Coronado’s Bay Books, Upstart Crow in Seaport Village, and Book Works in the Del Mar’s Flower Hill center.IMGP3910